Khao Tom Bawon – Satisfying Teochew Porridge for Supper in Bangkok
Bangkok is a city that never sleeps. Even though I have been there so many times, I am still overwhelmed by the sights and sounds at different parts of the city. The streets are always busy with pedestrians, food stalls, cars and tuk tuk.
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If you had a late night and craved for a comforting bowl of porridge, head to Khao Tom Bawon (ข้าวต้มบวร) on Samut Phrahan Road (north of Khao San Road). With 65 years of history, Khao Tom Bawon is home to a gamut of Teochew-style cuisine.
When I started exploring Bangkok about 7 years ago, Khao Tom Bawon was one of my supper spots. Located in a back alley, you may walk past it easily without noticing. But once you found it, you will be treated to great Teochew dishes as if you are dining in someone’s home. There are options to dine in an air-conditioned room or just sit along the alley, it’s up to you!
I don’t remember if they have a menu, but what I usually do is to just walk to the front and pick the ingredients I want. They are still cooking authentic local recipes since the grandfather’s days. Besides the steamed and braised items, you can also order stir fry items from the staff. Dishes I always eat includes their chai po omelette, braised intestines and stir-fried morning glory.
They claim to be the originator of pad pak boong fai dang, or stir-fried kangkong with chillies. The sambal kangkong in Thailand is a little different from Singapore’s version. They added loads of fermented bean sauce, so it has that extra savouriness in the dish. The intestines have been braised till it is velvety soft, in a light and clean-tasting sauce. The steamed minced pork with salted egg is another classic. It’s simple but the pork is tender and well-seasoned, which goes well with porridge.
End your supper with a CUP-D. Don’t think dirty, it’s just a cup of homemade durian ice cream.
To me, having porridge for supper is a heavenly meal. Even though it is not the cheapest in Bangkok, it is affordable and tasty. If you are wondering, the eatery is just across the entrance to Wat Bowonniwet (or Wat Bowon for short) – a first class Royal temple. The owner of the eatery is the principal disciple of the temple, hence they are allowed to name after the temple.
Khao Tom Bawon
Address: 243 Phra Sumen Rd, Khwaeng Wat Bowon Niwet, Khet Phra Nakhon, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon 10200, Thailand
Phone: +66 2 629 1739
Opening Hours: 5pm to 3am daily
MissTamChiak.com made anonymous visit and paid its own meal at the stall featured here.