Lao Wang Kampong Bean Sprout Chicken Rice – Ipoh Bean Sprout Chicken Opened By Ex-5 Star Hotel Chef At Geylang

Pei Xian Tan
Pei Xian Tan
December 07, 2020

If you have been to Ipoh before, chances are that you have probably heard of, or even tried nga choy gai (芽菜鸡; bean sprout chicken), one of Ipoh’s most iconic dishes. And perhaps also equally likely, you may have heard that the BEST nga choy gai in Ipoh can be found at Lou Wong (老黄) Restoran.

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But did you also know that there is a Lao Wang (老王) here in Singapore selling nga choy gai as well? Although both ‘老’s serve up the same signature Ipoh dish, they are totally unrelated. The Lao Wang here in Singapore is helmed by an ex-5 star hotel chef who has been in the trade since 1986, and goes by the surname of Wang, thus explaining the coincidental stall name.

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So what makes nga choy gai different from our usual chicken rice? The nga choy (bean sprouts in Cantonese) la! Owing to Ipoh’s mineral-rich waters, the bean sprouts used in nga choy gai are supposedly more stout and plump, with a good crunch. And Kampong chickens, which are smaller in size, are used instead of the usual meat chickens (肉鸡) we get in our local chicken rice. As Kampong chickens are left to run about instead of being cooped up and fed for slaughter, their flesh are hence said to be more tender and chewy.

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The Chicken Rice Set ($6) at Lao Wang was good value for money. It came with a portion of Kampong Chicken, bean sprouts, a bowl of chicken rice and soup. As there were two of us, we added on an extra portion of chicken ($3) to share, along with other sides. Note that chicken breast is usually served as part of the Chicken Rice set at Lao Wang. If you would like to request for another cut, additional charges may apply!

At first glance, the skin of the Kampong Chicken was noticeably thinner and had a yellow tint, compared to the usual gelatinous white chicken skin we are used to seeing in our local steamed chicken. It also did not have that layer of jelly-like collagen beneath, which we were very much anticipating. But the chicken did have a good firm bite and was tender, though not as slippery smooth as we would have preferred. The sauce which was spiked with generous hints of sesame oil, soya sauce and rock sugar, did well to elevate the otherwise flat-tasting chicken.

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According to Lao Wang’s wife who was helping out with cashiering duties in the stall, nga choy gai is cooked in a similar fashion to Hainanese Chicken. It requires poaching in cold water after cooking to stop the heat from overcooking the chicken, and keep it succulent and moist. Although Lao Wang previously specialized in Hainanese-style chicken rice, he decided to venture into selling nga choy gai as he found few places in Singapore selling it, and he also preferred the sweeter and less oily Kampong Chicken flesh.

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And how was the nga choy? We adored it! We really enjoyed the bean sprouts which came topped with fried ikan bilis, chilli, spring onions, and a sprinkling of pepper. Only flash-blanched to get rid of the raw taste of uncooked sprouts, the nga choy were refreshingly crunchy, with a nice tinge of salty-crispiness from the ikan bilis, and a spicy kick from the pepper. The savory sauce also carried notes of natural sweetness from the nga choy, and we finished off the whole plate without realizing it!

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The chicken rice at Lao Wang, lovingly rendered in chicken fat, ginger, spring onion, garlic and infused with the fragrance of pandan leaves, was also not too oily, and paired extremely well with the black soya sauce and chicken soup on the side. Each rice grain was whole and cooked till fluffy. Every additional portion of rice comes at an affordable $0.80, no better news for all thou rice buckets out there.

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Not to be missed is also the specially concocted house-made ginger sauce, which Lao Wang proudly crowned as the soul (灵魂) of his condiments. Doused in a generous pool of rendered Kampong Chicken oil, the ginger sauce was indeed smooth on the palate, while bearing spicy hints from the grated ginger. Place some ginger on the chicken, dip it into the tangy chilli, and you’re all set. Lao Wang sure knows the way to our souls.

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Another must-have with nga choy gai, is the renowned Ipoh Hor Fun ($1). Featuring thin kway teow (flat rice noodles) in a chicken-based broth, the Ipoh Hor Fun did not really stand out as it seemed like just another bowl of… kway teow tng. Perhaps we went on a bad day, the kway teow was a little overcooked, and disintegrated as we tried to pick it up.

What stood out, however, was the sweet-tasting chicken broth, which according to Lao Wang’s wife, was made with 100% pure chicken carcasses simmered for hours with their secret recipe. Clear, light and speckled with fried shallots, the chicken broth was comforting and somewhat addictive. It also did not leave us thirsty unlike other MSG-laden chicken soups out there, so that was a big plus point!

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Seeing almost every table having an order of their Crystal Chicken Feet ($6) and innards (Chicken Liver and Gizzard, $0.80 each), we could not resist getting a plate to share as well. The homemade boneless Crystal Chicken feet was served cold and had a good crunch, while the Chicken Liver and Gizzard were tender with a good chewy bite. Doused in the same sauce as their Kampong Chicken, these sides made for a wonderful complement to the set meal.

From evening time onwards, Lao Wang transforms into a tzechar and BBQ stall. So swing by early if you are looking for something interesting to try in the Geylang area apart from your usual Frog Porridge, Claypot Rice, Dim Sum and wanton mee!

Lao Wang Kampong Bean Sprout Chicken Rice

Address: 130 Sims Avenue, Lor 17 Geylang, Singapore 387453

Phone: 8218 9696

Opening Hours: 11am to 1am daily.

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/LaoWangChickenRice/

MissTamChiak.com made anonymous visit and paid its own meal at the stall featured here.