Bau Mak — A Refined Bowl of Fish Soup by Former Naked Finn Chef

There’s a quiet corner at Golden Mile Food Centre where ex-Naked Finn head chef Kek Wan Fong is quietly redefining what hawker fish soup can taste like. Opened in April, Bau Mak may look like a humble stall, but it’s helmed by a chef with serious chops. With over a decade of experience at the celebrated Naked Finn, and past stints at Equinox and Osia Steak and Seafood Grill, Wan Fong brings fine-dining finesse to every comforting bowl he serves.

The name Bau Mak—which means “mum’s smell” or “mum’s flavour” in Malay—offers a hint of nostalgia, but don’t expect a carbon copy of mum’s cooking. Instead, what you’ll get is a deeply considered, clean-tasting broth, built on skill, seafood know-how, and balance.

The batang fish soup ($5.50) may be the most basic on the menu, but it’s already better than what most fish soup stalls serve. The thinly-sliced batang is fresh and well-marinated, tender and flaky, practically melting into the tangy, umami-laced broth. Add-ons like seasoned minced pork and bittergourd ($1 each) elevate the soup even more, adding body and depth. The umami here likely comes from dried fish powder, a nod to traditional Teochew-style soups, with gentle sourness perhaps from a touch of plum.

The red grouper version ($12) is a luxe upgrade with a firmer bite, while the seafood soup ($8.50) with prawns and clams is perfect for shellfish lovers. Each bowl is generously layered with cabbage, tomato slices, ginger, tofu, and your choice of rice or noodles (mee sua, thick or thin bee hoon).

Don’t skip the handmade Ngoh Hiang ($3.50 per roll). Each piece is fried till golden and stuffed with chopped water chestnuts for crunch, seasoned with plenty of five spice for flavour. It comes with two dipping sauces: a zesty lime-garlic-chilli dip that pairs especially well with seafood, and the classic sticky sweet sauce that never fails.

Though now working solo, Wan Fong hasn’t compromised on quality. There’s even a self-ordering kiosk at the stall to help him manage flow. You’ll often spot him manning two induction stoves simultaneously, expertly juggling pots and bowls with practiced precision.

Conclusion:
Bau Mak is the kind of hawker gem we all hope to stumble upon—one that blends the comfort of street food with the depth and clarity of a restaurant-quality broth. It’s a fish soup stall born from a chef’s passion and his desire to spend more time with family, without losing sight of excellence.